Canals, Castles, and Culture: A Three-Week Journey in the Netherlands & Germany

Arriving in Munich, you would be forgiven for thinking you were on the set of a movie about old Bavaria. At the Old Town beer halls, barmaids laced in dirndl dresses serve up frosty Helles lager, as oom-pah music drifts across the Marienplatz square. Men in lederhosen and checked shirts merrily give toasts as they knock glasses, or steins, as they’re known here. They sit at tables laden with wurst sausage and giant pretzels oozing with herby butter. This is Germany’s Germany, a place where folk traditions never stopped, and the revelry doesn’t either. Even when it isn’t Oktoberfest, the town’s notorious beer-drinking celebration, Munich is always happy to show you a good time. Simply cast your eyes around the lavish, gilded banquet hall at the Munich Residenz, the 13th-century Wittelsbach palace. You’ll see Munich has been impressing guests for centuries. Or, swing by the BMW Museum and check out the classic German cars. They even let you sit inside to test out the new models. At the city’s English Gardens, surfers ride waves on one of the park’s rivers. Munich is filled to the brim with this kind of pure-hearted German fun.

Heidelberg is buried deep in the forests of southwest Germany. Flanking both sides of the Neckar River, Heidelberg's red and white baroque old town looks like something from a book of folktales. On the hillside above the town, you'll see the looming, tumbledown remains of Heidelberg's Gothic-Renaissance castle, Heidelberger Schloss. The subject of strange local legends, Heidelberg Castle was once home to knights, a famous court jester, and even a witch. It is said the first person who pulls out an iron ring embedded in one of the great doors will be the castle's true owner. Surely on your visit, it's worth a try? Across the river, follow in the footsteps of scholars on a hiking trail known as The Philosophers’ Way. Heidelberg University is the oldest in Germany, and its leafy, temple-like campus contributes to the gentle, contemplative atmosphere of the town.  A poetic city with the dreamy feel of a watercolor painting, it's no wonder Heidelberg inspired writers like Mark Twain and Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. The city has even been recognized by UNESCO as a City of Literature. Especially on misty, grey days, Heidelberg has a way of sweeping you up in its romanticism.

As you travel through Western Germany, Cologne is a cheerful, fun city to stop for a night or two. Flanking both sides of the Rhine river, Cologne's delightful architectural pastiche reflects the breezy anything-goes attitude of its inhabitants. Like most German cities, Cologne took a hit during WWII, losing some of its old-world buildings and neighborhoods. However, thanks to the endurance of the Cologne Cathedral and iconic Hohenzollern Bridge, the city has kept its identity close to hand. Sometimes quite literally in the form of a glass of sparkling Kölsch local beer.  A visit to Cologne should always include paying a call to its eponymous Cathedral. A sensational, Gothic behemoth of a building and a UNESCO Heritage Site, Cologne Cathedral will get you right in the heart, humbling all who enter it. Just outside the cathedral, the Hohenzollern Bridge spans the Rhine, with three iron truss arches looping over the river like the bounces of a skimming stone. After wandering the riverside, if you're looking for some indulgence, Cologne's Chocolate Museum is an eternally popular choice. Maybe you'll be under the influence of the cocoa, but at the end of a day in Cologne, life can seem pretty sweet.

A waterside metropolis with a low-key vibe, a visit to Amsterdam is as fun and freewheeling as a fixed-gear bicycle. This is the city where you can let it all go. The streets of Amsterdam chime with bicycle bells and the laughter of people making their way between bars. Yellow wheels of cheese line shop windows, and in springtime, market stalls are abundant with the famous Dutch tulips.      Younger than other cities in the Netherlands, Amsterdam sprang to life in the 17th century, when it became flush with trade from the Dutch colonies. From the gable tipped houses standing shoulder-to-shoulder on the canals to the Rembrandt paintings hanging on the walls of the Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam is strewn with relics from the Dutch Golden Age. Whether you rent a bicycle, float down a canal, or just sip on an amber-colored lager and watch the world go by, Amsterdam makes a lasting impression from start to finish.

A waterside metropolis with a low-key vibe, a visit to Amsterdam is as fun and freewheeling as a fixed-gear bicycle. This is the city where you can let it all go. The streets of Amsterdam chime with bicycle bells and the laughter of people making their way between bars. Yellow wheels of cheese line shop windows, and in springtime, market stalls are abundant with the famous Dutch tulips.      Younger than other cities in the Netherlands, Amsterdam sprang to life in the 17th century, when it became flush with trade from the Dutch colonies. From the gable tipped houses standing shoulder-to-shoulder on the canals to the Rembrandt paintings hanging on the walls of the Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam is strewn with relics from the Dutch Golden Age. Whether you rent a bicycle, float down a canal, or just sip on an amber-colored lager and watch the world go by, Amsterdam makes a lasting impression from start to finish.

Compared to other German cities, Hamburg has a moody, nautical charisma all of its own. Despite being battered throughout history by floods, fires, and bombs, Hamburg has always held its head up high. Resilience is in the air in Hamburg, along with the briny smell of the North Sea. In recent years Hamburg has garnered a reputation for commerce and nightlife. Frequent travelers whisper that Hamburg is Germany’s ‘undiscovered’ city, the place to go for a little business and a lot of fun.  Known as Germany’s ‘gateway to the world’, ships dock in Hamburg as they haul cargo up and down the Elbe River. The city thrives as Germany’s primary seaport and has been a center of trade since the middle ages. Its affluence shows in the 19th-century brick warehouses, flourishing restaurant scene, and recently constructed Elbphilharmonie concert hall, which floats majestically in the harbor, part ship and part island. Hamburg is a city for those who like to live large - in a cultured, German kind of way. Attend a performance at the orchestra, cruise on a boat around the Außenalster Lake, or have a night on the Reeperbahn, the Vegas-like strip where the Beatles once performed. Whatever you do in the city, Hamburg will make you look twice and see Germany from a totally different point of view.

Since the fall of its notorious wall, Berlin’s unification has seen it go from strength to strength. No wonder the city feels like it hasn’t stopped partying since the 1990s. There is so much to celebrate here. Fueled by the robust economy, a thriving tech scene, and straight-up German bonhomie, when you step into Berlin you’ll soon be caught up in its spirit.  For all this gusto, Berlin hasn’t forgotten its troubled past. A visit to Berlin is to bear witness to history. Portions of the wall remain intact, and the city’s Jewish Museum offers a detailed, emotional examination of the Holocaust. Inside the reconstructed Reichstag, every attempt has been made to preserve the parliament’s beleaguered history. The buildings' glass dome addition feels less like a triumphal crown and more like a freshly healed battle scar.  Days in Berlin are easily spent wandering from a cafe to the cultural institutions on Museum Island, or over to the Charlottenburg Palace. By night, crowds wander through the booming bars and nightclubs or gaze upon the floodlit Brandenburg Gate and Victory Column monuments. An international city that can offer something to everyone, Berlin is an unmissable stop on your German journey.

One of the most authentic, storied German destinations, Nuremberg's picturesque old town, glorious castle, and buzzing Christmas Market makes this city a time-true classic. The ideal gateway to old Bavaria, Nuremberg offers a primer in German history before you embark on the lovely journey through old Bavaria, known as the Romantic Road. Considered the capital of the Holy Roman Empire in the middle ages, Nuremberg would have felt like the center of the world as a procession of kings and emperors passed through its magnificent gates. When the German Renaissance came, Nuremberg was at its heart. Albrecht Dürer, the great German master artist, was born here, and Martin Luther called Nuremberg Germany's 'eyes and ears'. Skip forward a few centuries, and the city took a dark turn, as Nuremberg became a gathering point for the German National Socialists. Slightly outside of town, you can still find the Nazi Party Rallying Grounds, a sobering reminder of the not so distant past. If it all gets too heavy, you can end the day with a glass of rotbier (red beer) and mull it over. Nuremberg is a must-see for anyone who wants to delve into Germany's past.