Adriatic Dream: 10-Day Croatian Journey including Bosnia & Montenegro

Mid-Day/Afternoon

Excursion to Klis Fortress

For thousands of years the mighty and imposing Klis Fortress, with its grand views of the Dalmatian Coast, has been guarding the strategic mountain pass just above Split. For many modern visitors, however, more significant than the real history of the castle is its use as a film set for the city-state of Meereen in Game of Thrones. In either case, ciimbing the fortress's steep trails and exploring its ruins makes for a fascinating visit. The remarkably intact structure with grand views of the Dalmatian Coast was first fortified by the ancient Illyrian tribe of the Dalmatae, and later by Romans. In medieval times it was a seat of power for the expanding medieval kingdom of the Croats, even repelling a Mongol army in 1242. Klis was later defended by a band of irregular Croatian defenders, the Uskoks, who managed to hold off repeated sieges by the Ottoman Turks until finally being defeated in 1537. Within the fortress you'll find an interesting exhibit on the Uskoks. Retaken from the Turks in 1648, the fortress changed hands several more times, and saw its last military action during the Second World War when it was a stronghold for Italian and German occupation forces. These days, you can easily conquer the fortifications yourself via the local bus line 22 from Split. Even more easy is the Promet tourist bus which leaves from the main bus station and reaches the fortress in 20 minutes. Of course most convenient is take a guided tour which can explain both the real and the cinematic story behind the fortress.

Afternoon to Early Evening

Marjan Peninsula & the Fisherman's Quarter of Veli Varoš

Veli Varoš is a neighborhood situated at the western end of the old town that is crammed full of charming old stone houses and apartments characteristic of Dalmatia, and narrow cobbled streets that wind up the Marjan Hill. The district once represented the poorer part of Split developed by farmers and fishermen looking to make a better living in the city and seeking shelter from Ottoman military incursions. Today property prices have accelerated northwards, but it's still well worth reconnoitering the maze of paths and traffic-free lanes as you head to the top of the neighborhood to catch magical views of the city. Venture beyond the Fisherman's Quarter and you will be surrounded by typically Mediterranean forest landscape on the Marjan Peninsula.

Mid-Day/Afternoon

Excursion to the Top of Mount Srd

Mount Srd, towering above the ancient city of Dubrovnik, undoubtedly offers the best panoramic views of the old town and the surrounding coastline. You can ascend the 412m (1352ft) peak via an ultra-modern cable car near the old city walls, or get the blood pumping by hiking up a steep zig-zag trail to the top. Apart from the astonishing scenery, there's also a museum dedicated to the 1991-95 Croatian War of Independence. The original cable car was built back in 1969 but had to be completely rebuilt after suffering extensive damage during the conflict of the early 1990s. On a clear day, you can see up to 60 km (37 miles). It's for this reason the neighboring Imperial Fortress was built by the French on this spot back in the early 19th century. The cable car runs as soon as there are enough passengers, and the last departure from the lower station is thirty minutes before closing time, which can be as early as 4pm during the winter, and as late as midnight in the summer.

Afternoon/Late Afternoon

Walk Dubrovnik's Old City Walls

The mighty walls of Dubrovnik are considered to be among the greatest defensive fortifications of the Middle Ages. Impregnable throughout their history, the walls run for an incredible 2km (1.24mi), encircling the entire old city, and reaching a maximum height of 25m (82ft). They are reinforced by 17 towers, 5 bastions, and 3 fortresses. No wonder enemy sieges were ultimately unsuccessful, including the Serb siege during the Croatian War of Independence in the early 1990s when the ancient walls proved more effective at resisting modern weaponry than contemporary structures on the city's periphery. A dedicated walk along the entire length of the walls offers unsurpassed views of the city. The City Walls are paid entrance and are open all year round (but keep in mind that they close at 3:00 PM between November and March. The best time to do the walk in summer is early in the morning or as late in the afternoon as possible when the numbers of other people touring the walls are fewest. There are three entrances to the City Walls: at the start of the main thoroughfare called the Stradun, at St John's Fortress, and at St Lucas's Fortress.

Late Afternoon to Evening

Explore Dubrovnik's Famous Old Town

The intricately fortified city of Dubrovnik acquired fabulous wealth as the Republic of Ragusa, which pursued a policy of strict neutrality and was managed by a semi-democratic system of government. It prospered for several centuries until the Napoleonic Wars brought its independence to an end. The income it earned from facilitating Mediterranean trade with the Balkan hinterland was used not only to build its impregnable stone walls and fortresses, but also to construct sumptuous churches, monasteries, and palaces inside the city walls. These remain so well preserved, even despite the military conflict of the early 1990s, that you could be mistaken for thinking you'd been transported back in time while exploring the maze of alleyways and back streets. The first thing to know about Dubrovnik's Old Town is that it gets very, very crowded during the high tourist season, and so if possible, it's best to tour it as early as possible. The main problem is caused by cruise liners that disgorge hundreds of passengers at a time; there can be up to six gargantuan liners in town at any one time, placing huge pressure on the city's facilities and infrastructure and leading to bottle-necks of tourists.

Afternoon to Early Evening

Swimming at Dubrovnik Beaches

Dubrovnik is much more than just the Old Town and there are a number of attractive beaches in and around the city where you can enjoy a swim in near pristine waters or simply soak up the sun on a rented deck chair; there's never a cafe or ice-cream seller too far away. Croatia's beaches are usually quite rocky, but in Dubrovnik, they're often pebble beaches or a mixture of fine shingle and sand, although there's also a beach called Copacabana that has imported sand. Locals talk about their favorite bathing spots like the British discuss the weather; we make it easy to discover the place that's right for you so you don't have to ask. When you first arrive in Dubrovnik and you're touring the Old Town it's often not immediately apparent where the swimming beaches are. You'll see people swimming in the sea around the city walls, but usually they're sunning themselves and jumping into the water from rocky outcrops that can be difficult to access if you don't know where exactly to go. There are, however, a good dozen sandy or pebbly beaches in the greater Dubrovnik area, with two or three within an easy walking distance of the old town. Other good beaches can be reached without too much trouble by boarding a municipal bus from Pile Gate or other nearby stops according to where your hotel is located.

Early Evening/Evening

Dining Out in Dubrovnik

Due to the mass tourism which often overwhelms the city, Dubrovnik doesn't have a particularly great reputation as a purveyor of haute cuisine, and many restaurants favor high prices over quality. Nonetheless, you can find some really great restaurants in the city, which is only as it should be considering Dubrovnik's seaside location and the quite wonderful Dalmation culinary tradition which it has to draw upon. Indeed, the atmosphere of the city, with its ancient stone buildings and al fresco cafes lining the cobblestone streets, makes for a perfect dining setting. Meaning that if you choose well, you have all the ingredients necessary for an ideal culinary experience.

Late Afternoon to Evening

Self-Guided Sea Kayaking in Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik is the perfect place to try out some sea kayaking if you've never done it before; even experienced kayakers will enjoy this adventure. The water is warm, crystal clear and very smooth, and you get to see the old city walls of Dubrovnik from a different angle. Accompanied by English speaking instructors, you will set off to explore the caves and sights of Lokrum island, also called 'The Land of Love'.