Peaks to Palaces: 10 Days in Switzerland, Germany, and Austria

Schweizerisches Landesmuseum (Swiss National Museum)

Museum displaying Swiss history

 Housed in a purpose-built mock-Gothic castle, the museum is often visited just to marvel at its architecture, but actually, this massive building has such superbly presented state-of-the-art displays on the history of the Swiss Confederation that you're sure to find something here that's worth at least an hour or two. If there's one thing the Swiss do, it's that they don't skimp on culture, so you can expect excellent value for money here.

James Joyce Foundation

Museum dedicated to the great Irish writer, James Joyce, wrote Ulysses during his wartime exile in Zurich from 1915-19

Museum dedicated to the great Irish writer, James Joyce, wrote Ulysses during his wartime exile in Zurich from 1915-19

FIFA World Football Museum

Modern museum with over 1000 displays on football (soccer)

Covering three floors in total, the museum traces the history of the game, FIFA, and both men's and women's World Cup competitions. Football junkies will delight in the details and memorabilia like old programs, shirts, boots and footballs, and even an unopened bottle of champagne from England's 1966 World Cup celebrations.

Wasserkirche

13th century church and crypt

The Gothic church is the site of the alleged martyrdom of Zurich's patron saints, Felix and Regula (they had deserted from their Roman legion in 286 and fled to Zurich before they were caught, tried and executed; after decapitation, they miraculously stood to their feet, picked up their own heads, walked forty paces uphill, and prayed before lying down in death). Behind the church is a statue of a sword-wielding Zwingli.

Kunsthaus Zürich

Art museum with major European collections from the 15th century

An absolute must for art enthusiasts. The collection begins before you even get inside: besides the main door is Rodin's vivid Gate of Hell depicting a scene from Dante's Inferno, while sculptures by Moore, Maillol, and others populate the grounds. Inside, Dutch and Flemish paintings are well represented by Rubens, Rembrandt, Hals, and others, and there's a Venetian room with works by Canaletto and El Greco. The collection of 20th-century art is one of the best in the world, with a selection of pop, concrete, and abstract expressionist art headlined by Warhol, Rothko, Bacon, and Twombly. Cubism, Fauvism, Dada, and Surrealism haven't been forgotten either. There are plenty of examples too of Picasso, Chagall, and Kandinsky, plus two canvasses by Monet, in addition to works by Van Gogh, Gauguin, and Cezanne, along with the largest Munch collection outside of Norway.

Kriens-Pilatus Cable Car Station

Richard Wagner Museum Lucerne

15th century home where the composer, Richard Wagner, once lived

His manor house is now an important museum for students and lovers of his music. Numerous paintings and photographs, along with hundreds of letters he wrote to admirers such as King Ludwig II, the philosopher, Friedrich Nietzsche, and the composer, Franz Liszt, all of whom visited the Tribschen house.

Kultur und Kongresszentrum Luzern

A contemporary cultural complex featuring a concert hall, an art museum, restaurants, and a convention center.

A contemporary cultural complex featuring a concert hall, an art museum, restaurants, and a convention center.

Ritterscher Palace

Built in 1557 as a private mansion, but now hosting Lucerne's cantonal government

 Built in 1557 as a private mansion, but now hosting Lucerne's cantonal government

Bourbaki Panorama

A modern glass building on Löwenplatz called the Bourbaki Panorama

Inside is a giant 114m-by-10m circular mural depicting the retreat into Switzerland of the French Eastern Army under General Bourbaki during the Franco-Prussian War of 1870-71

Gletschergarten (Glacier Garden)

Discover the fascinating Glacier Garden, where Lucerne’s deep past comes alive in stone and ice.

The Gletschergarten (Glacier Garden) his open-air museum showcases giant potholes formed by glacial meltwater during the last Ice Age, alongside fossils dating back 20 million years. Wander through the rocky formations, climb the observation tower for sweeping city views, and don’t miss the quirky mirror maze built in 1896. A blend of natural wonder and playful history, the Glacier Garden is one of Lucerne’s most distinctive attractions.

Lake Lucerne Boat Docks (Luzern Bahnhofquai)

Jesuit Church

One of the most beautiful Baroque buildings in Switzerland

One of the most beautiful Baroque buildings in Switzerland

Mozartplatz

One of several grand squares in the center of Altstadt in Salzburg.

One of several grand squares in the center of Altstadt in Salzburg. In the Mozartplatz you can find a statue of the famous composer. 

Salzburg Cathedral

Visit Salzburg's largest and most impressive church.

The current cathedral was built between 1614-1628 and is a masterpiece of baroque architecture. The cathedral was largely destroyed by an Allied bomb in WWII but was restored by 1959. One of the most significant treasures in the cathedral is the Baptismal Font, which was cast in 1321 and rests on copper lions dating back to the 1100s.

Fortress Funicular

Ascend the steep mountain to the fortress in seconds on the fortress funicular railway.

The fortress was never taken by force, even though it was not for a lack of trying. Luckily for you, today you can simply buy a ticket and easily reach the fortress by a steep funicular railway. 

Fortress Museums and Interior

Experience the impressive splendor and craftmanship of the castle interior.

The State Apartments/Regency Chambers (Fürstenzimmer) are the top attraction within the fortress. These rooms were built as a showcase for state functions and to receive foreign visitors and dignitaries. You can also visit the Fortress Museum, a Marionette Museum, and the WWI-focused Rainer Museum. 

Nonnberg Abbey

Take a short walk from the fortress to discover Maria's abbey from the Sound of Music.

Sadly the abbey is down to only a handful of nuns, so you are unlikely to see large groups of nuns in black habits singing in unison as they wonder aloud what to do with a problem like Maria. However, you can still walk some of the grounds and visit a lovely Romanesque and Gothic church, which is almost empty of tourists. Since it is usually empty, you must pay to light up the Romanesque frescoes and a Gothic altar, although this is half of a Euro well spent (especially in the case of the altar).

Fortress Terrace

Take in a breathtaking view of the nearby Alps.

The terrace of the fortress offers an absolutely stunning view of the Alps. You can see the Untersberg especially well. It was the mountain which the Von Trapp family climbed at the end of The Sound of Music to escape Austria. Ironically, it's on the Bavarian border, so they were actually climbing into Germany. In reality they took a train to Italy.

Salzburg Cathedral

Visit Salzburg's largest and most impressive church.

The current cathedral was built between 1614-1628 and is a masterpiece of baroque architecture. The cathedral was largely destroyed by an Allied bomb in WWII but was restored by 1959. One of the most significant treasures in the cathedral is the Baptismal Font, which was cast in 1321 and rests on copper lions dating back to the 1100s.

Mozart Birthhouse

Tour the historic home where Mozart was born.

The Altstadt is where Mozart was born and his music is still closely associated with Salzburg. You can visit his birth house on Getreidegasse. If possible, it is better to visit this particular attraction early in the day, as it gets quite crowded. 

Felsenreitschule Concert Hall

Sing Eidelweis in the concert venue made famous by The Sound of Music.

 You can visit the concert halls of the world's most prestigious international music festival, the Salzburger Festspiele. Carved into the rock of the mountain, this is where the Von Trapp family sang at the climax of the movie (and also in reality). The 50-minute tour (provided in English and German simultaneously) includes all the major venues and many backstages as well.

Mirabell Palace Gardens

Stroll this tranquil garden amidst the city hubbub and sing "Do-Re-Me" .

Within the gardens, you will discover not only greenery and flowers but also statues of a pegasus, unicorns, lions and other exotic animals, as well as a gnome garden, grand staircases, fountains, and other picturesque spots. Sound of Music fans will recognize it, as this is where several parts of the "Do-Re-Me" song were filmed. Maria and the children march around the pegasus statue and fountain, race through the lattice garden tunnels, pose at the garden gates, and pet the gnomes on the head. Not much of the palace interior is open to visitors, however, the best part of the palace, a marble staircase lined by Raphael Donner statues, is open to those who know how to find it. The corridor to the staircase can be found in the passage that connects the palace courtyard to the gardens and the Pegasus fountain. If you are coming from the courtyard, the door to the corridor is on your right. You will find the staircase within a few steps.

Linzer Gasse

Hang out with locals on this street lined by shopping and restaurants.

The Linzer Gasse and the streets surrounding it, with their historic storefronts and a multitude of restaurants and old guesthouses, give the Altstadt a run for its money in terms of liveliness and charm.  One of the best views in Salzburg is hidden near the Linzer Gasse. Just look for the gateway passage, which is located on the right side of the Linzer Gasse if you are coming from the river and head up the mountain side.

St. Sebastian's cemetery

Wander off of the beaten path to find one of Salzburg's hidden treasures, St. Sebastian's cemetery.

The peaceful cemetery is the resting place of many prominent Salzburgers, including Mozart's wife and father. The cemetery is lined by a cloister passageway, and in the center of the cemetery lies the magnificent mausoleum of the Prince Archbishop Wolf Dietrich. To find the cemetery just walk towards the church tower on the Linzer Gasse. The cemetery is located behind the church. There is usually an entrance open to the right of the church, but if that is closed, go the sidestreet to the left of the church (where you see the archway). You will find another entrance on the right side of the courtyard.

Trick Water Fountains

Get a little wet in this delightful garden of tricks.

The famous "Wasserspiele" are trick water fountains that never fail to delight, astonish, and befuddle. The fountains were actually built with the express purpose of playing practical jokes on guests, and they continue to provide plenty of amusement today. 

Augustinian Beer Hall

Quaff a beer in Salzburg's favorite and most historic brewery.

At the foot of the Mönchsberg, in the village-like neighborhood of Mülln, lies Austria's largest beer hall. Since 1621 it has served the famously delicious brew of the Augustinian monks. Although it attracts many visitors, it remains a favorite among locals, especially in the warmer months when the beer garden is open. Even if you don't drink beer, it is still a great way to try some traditional Austrian cuisine and mingle with Salzburgers in a wonderfully authentic atmosphere.

Richterhöhe

Discover these castle ruins which most visitors never find and enjoy unique views of the fortress and the Alps.

The Richterhöhe castle ruins date back to the year 1367. After the castle became obsolete, it's courtyard actually provided an ideal locale for grape growing. Vineyards therefore soon took over the bailey and can still be seen today. The most outstanding feature of the Richterhöhe is the amazing panoramic view it offers. It is one of the best views in all of Salzburg, and you will likely have it all to yourself.

Residenz Palace Museum

Wander where you will, audio guide in hand, through the spectactular royal residence.

You'll experience jaw-dropping architecture and beautiful artwork as you explore the museum and the adjacent Royal Treasury. Among the many highlights, unmissable is the Antiquarium, the largest and most lavish Renaissance hall north of the Alps. The window reveals are decorated with 102 views of towns, markets, and palaces in what was then the Duchy of Bavaria, providing an unique insight into how the country once looked. The Rich Chapel (Reiche Kapelle) was the private place of worship of Duke Maximilian I and his wife, and it was decorated with particular magnificence using colored marble and gilt reliefs. The Ornate Rooms (Reiche Zimmer) meanwhile represent a high point of the court Rococo style, and are works of art in their own right. 

Cuvilliés-Theatre

Visit what is perhaps the most ostentatious and sensually overwhelming building in Munich.

The exceptionally extravagant court theatre was built by Elector Max III Joseph's court architect François Cuvilliés between 1751 and 1755, and was intended to showcase Munich as a home to the arts and the enlightenment. It only survived the destruction of WWII because the elaborately carved tiers of boxes were removed from their original location in the Alte Residenztheater building for safekeeping. It's still used as a theatre today.FYI - to visit the Cuvilliés-Theatre you need to exit the museum and walk around the palace to get onto Residenzstraße and then re-enter the palace and cross through either the Chapel Courtyard or the Imperial Courtyard. 

Odeonsplatz

See the square where Hitler's Beer Hall Putsch came to a bloody end.

The square directly adjacent to the Residence is the Odeonsplatz, which is guarded by the Feldherrnhalle (Field Marshalls' Hall) in honor of the Bavarian army. It was here that Hitler's Beer Hall Putsch in 1923 came to a bloody end in a gun battle with the police. During the Nazi regime, anyone passing the Feldherrnhalle was obliged to give the Nazi salute, which prompted some locals to instead take a side street. The Nazis derogatorily nicknamed it the Shirkers' Alley, but the 'shirkers' are memorialized in a trail of brass cobblestones. Also on the square is the bright yellow Theatinerkirche with its two massive twin towers. It was the personal church of Bavaria's rulers and many of them are interred there.  

Hofbräuhaus

Enjoy some fine Bavarian brews in a beer hall that dates back to 1589.

Originally built in 1598 by Maximilian I, Duke of Bavaria, as an extension to the state brewery, this beer hall was opened to the public in 1828, remodeled in 1897, almost completely destroyed during World War II, and reopened following its restoration in 1958. It is now situated across three floors, with a restaurant, ballroom, and beer garden, and is one of the largest tourist attractions in the city as well as a favorite of locals. This is where the ingurgitation of vast quantities of beer and pretzels has been taking place since 1644. Even if you're a teetotaller, you'll want to at least take a look at the interior of the three-storied temple to the consumption of fermented hops and watch the odd local quaff his or her ale amid the sea of tourists. There's also an attractive courtyard where you can escape the din on a summer's day or evening.

New Town Hall & Glockenspiel

Enjoy the mechanical show as the figures on the Glockenspiel on the New City Hall come to life and re-enact stories from the 16th century.

The Marienplatz is the main square of the Altstadt, and its centerpiece is the domineering facade of the neo-Gothic Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall). It is decorated with gargoyles and statues, including a dragon scaling the turrets. For a great view of the city, ascend the 279ft (85m) tower (elevator available to the left just inside the main entrance to the town hall). The highlight of the building is the Glockenspiel, which attracts large numbers of tourists at 11 am and noon (and 5pm in the summer) who come to watch the contraption in operation. There's dancing, a joust, and more, all set to musical chimes. Unusually, the New Town Hall mostly survived WWII intact, probably because it was used by Allied bombers as a direction finder for obliterating the rest of the city.

Peterskirche

Climb to the top of Munich's oldest church tower for what is still today its best view.

The best views of central Munich can be viewed from the 302ft (92m) tower of St Peterskirche, inner Munich's oldest church and possibly the city's origin point. The presence of a church on its site goes back to before the city's founding, and it has existed in a number of iterations since. Its nearly 3000ft-tall tower is affectionately called "Alter Pete" or "Old Pete" as a recognition of its significance to Munich's social and cultural history.

Viktualienmarkt

Assemble a gourmet picnic lunch in one of Europe's best known markets.

The Viktualienmarkt is one of Central Europe's finest gourmet markets where many of the stalls have been run by generations of the same family. Prices are high, but you can gather all the ingredients for an haute cuisine picnic and then seat yourself in the market's own beer garden to enjoy an al fresco lunch. The very existence of such a market in an old town quarter is the result of Munich's dedication to preserving its past. Fearing that fast food chains will replace the old-fashioned market stalls and quaint eateries that make the Viktulienmarkt one of Europe’s most charming squares, the city subsidizes the rent so they can survive on the some of Germany’s most expensive real estate.

Jewish Museum

Learn about Munich's rich Jewish heritage and see it's most striking synagogue.

The museum focuses on Munich's Jewish heritage, as well as Jewish history and culture in general, with a contemporary flair and modern means of display. Adjacent to the museum is the Ohel Jakob synagogue, which ranks among the most striking structures built in the city in recent years. It is the first synagogue to serve as the main synagogue of the city since the Nazi Kristallnacht (i.e. the Night of Broken Glass). Tours are offered but must be arranged 10 days in advance.

Frauenkirche

Restored Gothic church.

The Frauenkirche, or Church of Our Lady, dominates the Altstadt. This is because the twin onion-domed towers inspired the city council to prohibit any other building in the Altstadt from exceeding their height of 325ft (99m). Much of the interior was destroyed during WWII, but it has been rebuilt. An attraction that survived the bombing in original form is the Teufelstritt, or Devil's Footstep, at the entrance. This is a black mark resembling a footprint, which according to legend is the result of a deal the devil made with the builder to finance construction of the church on the condition that it contains no windows. The clever builder, however, tricked the devil by positioning columns so that the windows were not visible from the spot where the devil stood in the foyer. By the time the devil discovered that he had been tricked, he could not enter the already consecrated church. The devil could only stand in the foyer and stomp his foot furiously, which left the dark footprint that remains visible in the church's entrance today.

Linderhof Palace

Stop by King Ludwig II's smallest palace on your way to Neuschwanstein and explore its delightful gardens.

Another of the eccentric (some say mad) King Ludwig II's creations is Linderhof Palace, which with its fantastic grotto and Moorish pavilion testifies to the king's vision. The smallest of his three palaces that he built, it is the only one that he lived to see completed. The palace is in between Munich and Neuschwanstein, meaning many tours stop there along the way.

Zugspitze

Take a ride on the famous Zugspitzbahn railway and a cable car to the peak of Germany's tallest mountain, the Zugspitze (2,962m or 9,718ft) for some truly breath-taking views.

The Zugspitzbahn railway is the classic and breathtaking way of ascending Germany's highest peak, the Zugspitze (2962m or 9718ft). The line reaches as high as 2650m, making it the third-highest railway line in the world. The station and ticket office for the Zugspitzbahn trains (#3) is right beside the Garmisch-Partenkirchen train station. From here you take the purpose-built train along a cogwheel railway as far as Grainau - don't miss the wonderfully picturesque Pfarrkirche church that comes into view on the left as you near Grainau. In Grainau you'll change to a railcar that operates a rack-and-pinion system. The final 11.5km (7.1mi) gets steeper and steeper until you get just past the Eibsee station where you enter the 975m (3199ft) 'Rosi Tunnel'. You finally emerge at the Zugspitzplatt plateau on the Schneefen glacier below the Zugspitze peak. From there you journey to the summit on the ultramodern Gletscherbahn cable car (no extra ticket needed).

Eibsee Lake

Hike to one of Bavaria's most picturesque spots.

If hiking is one of your goals in Garmisch and you're looking for a gentle option after descending from Zugspitze (or you don't wish to ascend the mountain at all), then we can heartily recommend the Eibsee Lake, which is, of course, one of the stops on the Zugspitzbahn. Just follow the signs to the lake (you can't miss it) and then the signs for the gentle 7.5km (4.6mi) hike around the lake shore while soaking up the stunning views. Avail yourself of the Eibsee beer garden after you get back to cool down.

Partnach Gorge

Venture deep within a stunning Alpine gorge.

If you want to avoid the expense of the Zugspitzbahn, then an excellent short or long hiking option is to head south of the train station to the Partnachklamm (Partnach Gorge). The trail to the gorge starts from the Olympic Ski Stadium, which if you need to save time you can get to by city bus no.1 or no.2 directly from the train station rather walking 2km (1.25mi) to Skistadion. From there you follow the signs to the gorge, which is only 30min away (you can also take a horse-drawn carriage from the stadium).