Echoes of History: A Journey Through Krakow and Warsaw

Podgórze

Wander the streets of the former Jewish Ghetto.

Podgórze is the neighborhood where the Krakow Jewish Ghetto was located. At the beginning of the war, only about 3,000 people lived in the district, but over 15,000 Jews were forcibly moved there and surrounded by tall walls and guarded gates. In 1942-3 the ghetto was "liquidated", with residents sent to either labor camps or extermination camps, or simply murdered in the streets. A couple small sections of the wall and a memorial of empty chairs (each chair representing a 1,000 victims) on the ghetto square are among the very few remaining physical reminders of the ghetto. On the corner of the square, you can also visit the small museum of the Apteka pod Orlem (Pharmacy under the Eagle), which was the only pharmacy allowed to operate in the ghetto. The Polish Catholic owner requested permission to operate within the ghetto and provided medical supplies to residents, often for free. Both he and Oscar Schindler were honored by Israel as "Righteous Among the Nations".

Szeroka

Visit the historic street that was the center of Kazimierz's Jewish community.

This wide street (Szeroka actually means wide) acted as a sort of square and marketplace for the community. While today well-maintained buildings line it, in the 19th century it would have been better described as "bustling" than "quaint". You can find all the major Jewish heritage sites nearby, including Krakow's oldest synagoague, the fortress-like Old Synagogue, which sits on the southern end of the street. Today it houses a museum of Jewish heritage.

Tempel Synagogue

Enjoy the splendor of this 19th-century synagogue with an opulate Moorish interior.

Unlike the older synagogues, which sometimes appeared more like fortresses than places of worship, the Tempel Synagogue is an architectural gem that represents a period of new-found confidence and comfort within the surrounding society. It proclaimed Jewish integration into modern society, while also representing its continued faith.

Old Jewish Cemetery (Remuh Cemetery)

Pass through the gates of the Remuh synagogue to find Krakow's most historic cemetery.

The Old Jewish Cemetery contains the graves of many famous Polish Jews, who were buried there from the 1500 to 1800's. The cemetery was largely destroyed by the Nazis, but many of the tombstones have been returned to the site. The entrance is hidden just off of Szeroka Street. Look for the gate across from the green space at the north end of the square. Once inside the courtyard, look for an entrance door on the wall to the right. 

Plac Nowy

Hit the spot with a tasty "zapiekanka" before exploring Kazimierz's nightlife.

Once the main square and kosher marketplace of the Jewish community, Plac Nowy's roundhouse of former butcher stands is now occupied by stands selling a special Krakow delicacy known as zapiekanka. Consisting of a toasted piece of baguette loaded with cheese and other toppings of your choosing, no trip to Krakow is complete without trying one. It's a good place to start exploring the nightlife of Kazimierz, Krakow’s youngest and coolest district. You will discover a lively scene on almost any evening.

Corpus Christi Basilica

Venture off the beaten path to discover one of Krakow's most impressive churches.

Kazimierz has always possessed a Christian population as well, and some of Krakow’s prettiest churches are located there, such as the breathtaking Corpus Christi Basilica, with its gothic architecture and soaring baroque altars. Just a few steps from the church you'll find Kazimierz’s largest square, the plac Wolnica. Its neo-Renaissance town hall contains one of the city’s best-hidden finds – the Ethnographic Museum. You will find recreations of life in the Polish countryside, with recreated cottage interiors, school rooms, farming implements, painted eggs, costumes, and much more. 

Old Town-Rail Station Tunnel

Cloth Hall

Take home something special from a vast market hall built in the 14th century, which is surrounded by arcaded passageways and topped with rows of gargoyles.

The covered market continues a centuries-old tradition with an eclectic range of goods of sale – you might be most interested in the amber jewelry or the handicraft items from the Podhale region. On the upper floor, you will find the 19th Century Polish Art Museum which features truly beautiful and under-appreciated artwork that packs a mighty patriotic punch. 

Słowacki Theatre

Experience a performance in a theater built to rival the most beautiful theaters in all of Europe.

Completed in 1893, it was the first building in Krakow equipped with electric lighting. The design was inspired by the best European theaters built in the Eclectic style (i.e. a mix of historic design styles), and its beauty helped make it a central venue in the flowering of Polish dramatic works which took place at the end of the 19th and early 20th century. Today it is still primarily hosts dramas in the Polish-language, but lucky visitors may also be able to catch an opera or concert.  

Market Square

See Europe's largest medieval town square, which may also be its most beautiful as well.

While all of the Old Town should be explored, there is actually a lot to keep you busy right on the Market Square – a huge expanse of flagstones, ringed by magnificent houses and towering spires. Once you are done at the surface, you can descend below ground to the archealogical escavations of Krakow's early medieval town, in the excellent Rynek Underground museum.

Cloth Hall

Take home something special from a vast market hall built in the 14th century, which is surrounded by arcaded passageways and topped with rows of gargoyles.

The covered market continues a centuries-old tradition with an eclectic range of goods of sale – you might be most interested in the amber jewelry or the handicraft items from the Podhale region. On the upper floor, you will find the 19th Century Polish Art Museum which features truly beautiful and under-appreciated artwork that packs a mighty patriotic punch. 

St. Mary’s Basilica

Escape to the quiet wonder of this magnificently beautiful and colorful church.

The 600-year-old basilica was built from red brick and stone, creating a striking appearance both in its exterior and interior. Venturing inside is a must to see the magnificent high altar carved by Veit Stoss, the greatest carver of the Gothic Age. The best view in the square can be earned with a gut-busting climb to the top of the church's Bugle Tower. It is from here that a lone trumpeter plays a sombre call four times on the hour, halting abruptly each time to commerate the watchman who warned the citizens of an attack before being shot through the throat with an arrow. 

Floriańska Street

Walk the same route once used by the Kings of Poland to enter Krakow.

Of all the historic streets leading off of the main square, Floriańska Street is the busiest and most striking. Filled with shops, restaurants, pubs, and museums, there is much to attract your attention besides the centuries-old architecture and brightly-painted facades. At the end of the street you will reach a small remaining stretch of the medieval walls, and pass through a 14th-century tower still guarding the town entrance.

Czartoryski Museum

See one of of Leonardo da Vinci's most famous works up close and in person.

The museum includes the treasures of one of Poland's most powerful noble families. It features a small but beautifully presented ancient art collection centered on a group of Etruscan coffins and richly decorated Egyptian sarcophagi. But the star attractions are to be found in the picture galleries, including Rembrandt’s "Landscape with the Good Samaritan" and Leonardo da Vinci’s "Lady with an Ermine". It's a totally different experience than fighting the crowds to catch a peak of the Mona Lisa.

Jagiellonian University

Educate yourself on Krakow's rich academic traditions at Poland's oldest university.

Founded in 1364, Jagiellonian University has attracted scholars and students from across Europe, including the astronomer Copernicus. The medieval heart of the university, the Collegium Maius, is open for visitors. Its tranquil arcaded courtyard is one of the most magical spots in Krakow, and the mechanical clock on the south wall is accompanied five times a day (9am, 11am, 1pm, 3pm and 5pm) by a procession of carved wooden figures. Meanwhile, the University museum allows you to experience the university as Copernicus did.

Szeroka

Visit the historic street that was the center of Kazimierz's Jewish community.

This wide street (Szeroka actually means wide) acted as a sort of square and marketplace for the community. While today well-maintained buildings line it, in the 19th century it would have been better described as "bustling" than "quaint". You can find all the major Jewish heritage sites nearby, including Krakow's oldest synagoague, the fortress-like Old Synagogue, which sits on the southern end of the street. Today it houses a museum of Jewish heritage.

Chmielna & Nowy Świat Streets

Hang out with locals in one of Warsaw's best areas for cafes and nightlife.

Chmielna street is a partially pedestrianized street with a great selection of eateries and hostelries. You'll also find restaurants and hangouts in some of the nearby streets, as well as the courtyards and alleyways on either side of Chmielna street.   At the end of Chmielna, you will meet up with Nowy Świat St, which is part of the old Royal Way and was once the favorite place of Polish intellectuals and artists. These days Nowy Świat is a popular student haunt, given that the central campus of Warsaw University is just up the street. This part of Nowy Świat becomes pedestrianised at the weekend and hence becomes party central on Saturday nights.

Warsaw Mermaid

Warsaw Mermaid (Warszawska Syrenka) is the official symbol of Warsaw.

On the square, Syrenka appeared in the 19th century. According to the legend, she is the sister of Copenhagen Mermaid.

Warsaw's Royal Castle

Tour the impressive Royal Castle for an entertaining crash course in Warsaw and Polish history.

Like everything else in central Warsaw, the Royal Castle was heavily damaged during the German bombing campaign that sparked WWII in September 1939 and was then completely and literally reduced to smoldering dust in 1944 in revenge for the failed Warsaw Uprising. What you see today is a carbon copy built in the 1970s when the Communist authorities became desperate to position themselves as 'socialist patriots' following decades of delay in the building schedule. Opened to the public in 1984, the Castle today is filled with period furniture and works of art. Highlights of the castle tour include the Great Apartment and its magnificent Great Assembly Hall, which has been restored to its 18th-century decor of dazzling gilded stucco and golden columns. The neighboring National Hall was conceived as a national pantheon; the six huge canvases (surviving originals) depict pivotal scenes from Polish history. Further on from the National Hall is the lavishly decorated Throne Room. Connected by a short corridor is the King’s Apartment, the highlight of which is the Canaletto Room at the far end. An impressive array of 23 paintings by Bernardo Bellotto, better known in Poland as Canaletto, captures Warsaw's mid-18th-century heyday in great detail. The works were of immense help in reconstructing the city’s historic facades. 

Old Town Market Square

See for yourself just how well the magic of Old Warsaw was reconstructed in the Market Square.

Dating back to the 1200's the square is the oldest part of the city, and for most of the Warsaw's history, it was the very heart of the town as well. Originally surrounded by Gothic style buildings, over time they were reconstructed in the Renaissance and Baroque styles you see today. There's a gurgling fountain in the middle of the square overseen by a statue of the Warsaw Mermaid (Syrena), the city's symbol. You can also often see the square "keeper" wandering the precinct - a man in traditional dress, consisting of a red suit and a curved sword. Today it is lined by cafes, filled with tourists, and seems just as picture-postcard pretty as the other great city squares of Europe. But in some respects it is an illusion. The buildings of the original market square were systematically blown up by the Germans during the Warsaw Rising and painstaking rebulit after the war, with the exteriors exactly matching pre-uprising photos. The photos were taken with just this end in mind, as the Poles knew what was in store for them once the fighting began. It is one of the most remarkable bits of postwar reconstruction anywhere in Europe and truly deserves its UNESCO status. 

Warsaw's Royal Castle

Tour the impressive Royal Castle for an entertaining crash course in Warsaw and Polish history.

Like everything else in central Warsaw, the Royal Castle was heavily damaged during the German bombing campaign that sparked WWII in September 1939 and was then completely and literally reduced to smoldering dust in 1944 in revenge for the failed Warsaw Uprising. What you see today is a carbon copy built in the 1970s when the Communist authorities became desperate to position themselves as 'socialist patriots' following decades of delay in the building schedule. Opened to the public in 1984, the Castle today is filled with period furniture and works of art. Highlights of the castle tour include the Great Apartment and its magnificent Great Assembly Hall, which has been restored to its 18th-century decor of dazzling gilded stucco and golden columns. The neighboring National Hall was conceived as a national pantheon; the six huge canvases (surviving originals) depict pivotal scenes from Polish history. Further on from the National Hall is the lavishly decorated Throne Room. Connected by a short corridor is the King’s Apartment, the highlight of which is the Canaletto Room at the far end. An impressive array of 23 paintings by Bernardo Bellotto, better known in Poland as Canaletto, captures Warsaw's mid-18th-century heyday in great detail. The works were of immense help in reconstructing the city’s historic facades. 

Barbakan & Old Town Walls

Take a pleasant walk in the former moat beneath the old city walls.

A long red brick section of the old city walls rings the Old Town. The split-level fortifications, ramparts, and rebuilt watchtowers stand alongside a grassy, apple-tree lined moat, where a path runs beneath the outer walls. If you follow the walls along this path, known as Podwale, you may see fresh flowers laid on the ground which mark the places where the Nazis carried out wartime executions. The 16th-century Barbakan, a large fortified gate standing in the middle of the moat, is the most impressive part of the old city's fortifications. Beyond the first line of walls, you'll also discover a wide cobblestoned lane that runs between the first and second line of fortifications.

New Town Market Square

Be sure to wander just a bit outside the old city walls to this delightful tree-lined square.

Often missed by visitors who stick within the Old Town, Warsaw's New Town lies just to the north of the Old Town, starting just after the Barbakan. It is actually not so "new" since it dates back to the 15th century, and is well worth visiting, especially since it has all of the atmosphere of the Old Town without as many crowds. You'll discover the birhplace of Marie Curie, several historic churches, as well as numerous cafes, restaurants, and shops. The highlight is the New Town Square. This very tranquil and relaxing setting is one of the most lovely public settings in Warsaw. It's the perfect place to stop for refreshments surrounded by elegantly reconstructed 18th century facades. 

Little Insurgent

Take a moment at this poignant memorial to the child soldiers of the Warsaw Rising.

Little Insurgent (Mały Powstaniec), is a bronze figure of a small boy with an oversized helmet carrying a machine gun. It commemorates the many children killed fighting in the Warsaw Rising. When the Warsaw Rising was launched against the Nazi occupiers, the situation quickly became desperate. Children were used to ferry messages and supplies between the fighters. Some of the German forces sent to crush the rebellion were units specifically chosen for their reputations for cruelty, such as the Dirlewanger Brigade, a unit composed of violent convicted criminals. The German forces, who already used civilians as human shields and conducted mass executions of the population, had no compunction about killing these unfortunate child soldiers. This is perhaps Warsaw's most honored monument to the uprising, as it evokes both pathos and admiration for the incredible bravery against impossible odds.

Church of the Visitation & the Marie Curie Monument

See one of Warsaw's oldest churches as well as a statue honoring Marie Curie.

The Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary is a brick Gothic church built in the 15th century. Consecrated in 1411, it is one of the oldest churches in Warsaw and one of the few surviving Gothic structures left in the city. Largely destroyed by German forces during the war, it was rebuilt after the war. The square in front of the church sometimes hosts impromptu concerts and performances. Behind the church, just outside its gate, you'll discover a wonderful statue of Marie Curie staring across the Vistula River. The renowned scientist and native of Warsaw discovered radium and polonium, and made a incalcuable contribution to the treatment of cancer. 

Chopin Museum

Take an interactive voyage into the life and music of Poland's greatest composer.

Music lovers will not want to miss the Chopin Museum housed in the 17th century Ostrogskich Palace on Okólnik Street. The exhibits cover the life and work of the great Polish composer in significant detail, including many interactive displays. The sound booths in the basement area are particularly good, as you can listen to the music and learn the backstory of each piece. There's also a good souvenir shop in the neighboring building, and if you are lucky, there will even be a live concert or rehearsal in the museum during your visit.

Presidential Palace

Watch the changing of the guards at Warsaw's Presidential Palace.

Originally built in 1643 as an aristocratic mansion, this palace is now the official residence of the Polish president, but it has a long history of hosting important events. In 1791, it hosted the drafters of Poland's original constitution, which was also Europe's first constitution. It's also where the Warsaw Pact was signed in 1955 and the 'Round Table' talks between the Communist government and the Solidarity-led opposition took place in 1989.  In 1995, the Palace gained a new tenant in the person of Lech Wałęsa, signalling its new status as Presidential Palace. You'll see plaques and flowers out front marking the death of President Lech Kaczyński in 2010 in a plane crash in Russian Smolensk. If you stick around you'll be treated to a rather intricate changing of the guard featuring spik and span representatives from all three military services led by officers in their highly distinctive Rogatywka - the asymmetrical, peaked, four-pointed cap used by the Polish military throughout the ages. The changing of the guard takes place on the hour from midday to 5 pm on weekdays, with the most impressive change at midday.

University Library and Roof Garden

Take a roof-top stroll above the university library to experience a unique garden and great views.

Those interested in modern architecture and/or modern gardening will want to see the very ecologically friendly university library and one of the biggest roof gardens in Europe. The garden is nestled within lunar architecture with beautiful views of the center of Warsaw, the Vistula and of Praga – the district on the other side of the river. The garden is intersected with bridges and pathways that make it a pleasure to explore. Access to the roof is via the lower garden on the left side of the building when facing the river. 

Copernicus Science Centre

Keep the whole family entertained at this innovative and hands-on science museum.

The Copernicus Science Centre and Planetarium are located directly on the banks of the Vistula river. It has great hands-on science exhibits for young and old alike. With over 450 different exhibits, you can carry out experiments and discover the laws of science in a fun and interactive way.

University of Warsaw

Relax for a little while in the idyllic green campus of the University of Warsaw.

Pass through the University's main gates on the Royal Way, and you can relax within a leafy sanctuary away from the hustle and bustle of the city and discover the 17th-century Kazimierzowski Palace that is now home to the Rector's Office. Unlike many European universities, whose buildings are often scattered throughout hte city in seemingly random fashion, you'll find that this university area very much resembles an American university campus.

Chopin Monument

Catch a free outdoor concert at the Chopin Monument.

Just inside the park near the Łazienki Królewskie bus stop, you can find a statue of Poland's greatest composer Frederic Chopin. This is the setting for regular free Chopin recitals that take place here every Sunday between 12pm-4pm, from mid-May to late September. To find out what the programme is for each individual Sunday, go to www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl/en/.

Palace on the Isle

Enjoy the exquisite setting of this palace on a small island amidst the park's lake.

Located in the middle of the park lake is the Neoclassical Łazienkowski Palace - the best memorial to Stanisław August, the country's last and most cultured monarch. It was built on the site of a bathhouse erected for another member of royalty, hence the name "Łazienki" meaning simply "baths". Often referred to as the Palace on the Isle (Pałac Na Wyspie) due to its location, it is connected to the surrounding park by two collonaded bridges, creating a remarkably romantic setting. It is the smallest of Warsaw's royal palaces, and it can be visited without a guided tour. The ornately decorated interiors of the palace are well worth seeing. The palace Picture Gallery contains works by Rubens and Rembrandt, and one of the most attractive theaters in Warsaw can be found within it as well. The highlight though may be the colorful Solomon Room, with its walls covered in paintings depicting the History of Solomon. In addition to the palace itself, a large terrace with a fountain also sits on the island. Steps lead down into the water where small boats wait for passengers. You'll probably want to take lots of photos, as well as take some time to just sit on the steps of terrace and watch the swans float by. Within sight of the palace is another interesting little island, which serves as the stage for a small classical style theater sitting on the shore of the lake.

Ujazdowski Palace

Take a break from nature to check out some contemporary art.

Ujazdowski Palace was once inhabited by King Stanisław August's Italian-born mother. These days it's home to the Contemporary Art Centre, the city's leading venue for modern art shows.